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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, situated high among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.